Just 6 kilometers from our apartments in Stobreč, Split stands as Croatia's second-largest city and the beating heart of Dalmatia. With over 1,700 years of continuous habitation, this remarkable city offers visitors a unique blend of ancient Roman heritage and contemporary Mediterranean lifestyle.
The Birth of a City: Diocletian's Palace
Split's story begins in 305 AD when Roman Emperor Diocletian chose this spot on the Dalmatian coast to build his retirement palace. After nearly two decades of ruling the vast Roman Empire, he became the first emperor to voluntarily abdicate, retreating to his magnificent palace to spend his final years cultivating cabbages in his gardens—a fact he was said to be quite proud of.
Diocletian's Palace wasn't just a residence; it was a fortified complex covering nearly 40,000 square meters (9 acres), complete with military garrison quarters, temples, and even the emperor's mausoleum. The palace walls, some still standing 20 meters high, were built from white stone quarried from the nearby island of Brač.
UNESCO World Heritage Site
In 1979, UNESCO recognized Diocletian's Palace and the historic core of Split as a World Heritage Site, noting it as "one of the most famous architectural and cultural constructions on the Croatian Adriatic coast."
From Palace to Living City
What makes Split truly unique is that Diocletian's Palace isn't a museum—it's a living, breathing neighborhood. After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, locals sought refuge within the palace walls during the 7th century, transforming the ancient structure into a medieval town. Today, nearly 3,000 people still live within the palace boundaries, their homes built into and around the ancient Roman walls.
Medieval Times and Venetian Rule
Following the Roman era, Split experienced centuries of changing rulers. The city became part of the Byzantine Empire, then the Croatian Kingdom, before falling under Venetian rule in 1420. The Venetians controlled Split for nearly 400 years, leaving an indelible mark on its architecture, culture, and even language—many Split residents still speak a local dialect influenced by Venetian Italian.
During this period, the city expanded beyond the palace walls. The emperor's mausoleum was converted into the Cathedral of St. Domnius in the 7th century, making it one of the oldest Catholic cathedrals in the world still in use in its original structure. Ironically, it's dedicated to a Christian saint whom Diocletian himself had persecuted.
Modern Era: From Austrian Empire to Independent Croatia
After Venetian rule ended in 1797, Split became part of the Austrian Empire (later Austria-Hungary). This period brought industrialization, improved infrastructure, and the construction of the city's iconic waterfront promenade, the Riva. The Austrians built the first modern harbor facilities, railway connections, and grand buildings that still grace the city today.
The 20th century saw Split become part of Yugoslavia after World War I, experience Italian occupation during World War II, and then flourish as a major Yugoslav city and shipbuilding center. When Croatia declared independence in 1991, Split stood firmly with the new nation, serving as a crucial southern stronghold.
Split Today: Key Facts
- Population: Approximately 178,000 (city proper), making it Croatia's second-largest city
- Metro area: Over 350,000 residents
- Climate: Mediterranean with 2,800 hours of sunshine annually
- Economy: Tourism, shipping, food processing, and increasingly tech startups
- Airport: Split Airport handles over 3 million passengers annually
- Ferry connections: Gateway to islands including Brač, Hvar, Vis, Korčula, and Lastovo
Cultural Heart of Dalmatia
Modern Split is a vibrant cultural center, home to the Croatian National Theatre, numerous museums, and art galleries. The city hosts major events throughout the year:
- Ultra Europe Festival - One of Europe's largest electronic music festivals, held each July
- Split Summer Festival - Opera, theater, and classical music performances in historic venues
- Feast of Saint Domnius - The city's patron saint celebrated on May 7th with processions and festivities
- Mediterranean Film Festival - Showcasing regional cinema each June
The Split Lifestyle: Fjaka and Užancija
To understand Split, you must understand two local concepts. Fjaka (pronounced "fyah-kah") describes that blissful state of doing absolutely nothing—a sweet, relaxed lethargy that's considered an art form in Split. You'll see it practiced daily on the Riva, where locals gather for coffee that can last hours.
Užancija refers to the unique Split mentality—a mix of Mediterranean laid-back attitude, quick wit, and fierce local pride. Split residents are known throughout Croatia for their humor, directness, and love of their city.
Modern Attractions and Activities
Within Diocletian's Palace
- Peristyle Square - The palace's central square, now a popular gathering spot and concert venue
- Cathedral Bell Tower - Climb 183 steps for panoramic city views
- Palace Cellars - Underground Roman chambers, famously featured in Game of Thrones
- Temple of Jupiter - Converted into a baptistry, with a well-preserved Roman ceiling
Beyond the Palace
- Marjan Hill - A 178-meter forest park perfect for hiking, jogging, or sunset views
- The Riva - The waterfront promenade, Split's social hub lined with cafes and palm trees
- Green Market (Pazar) - Traditional open-air market selling local produce, fish, and crafts
- Bačvice Beach - Famous sandy beach and birthplace of "picigin," a unique local ball game
- Mestrovic Gallery - Museum dedicated to Croatia's most famous sculptor, Ivan Meštrović
Gateway to the Islands
Split's ferry port is one of the busiest in the Adriatic, serving as the primary gateway to Central Dalmatian islands. From here, you can easily reach:
- Brač - Home to Zlatni Rat beach and white stone quarries (40 min ferry)
- Hvar - Lavender-scented island known for nightlife and luxury (1 hour)
- Vis - Remote island with Blue Cave and untouched nature (2.5 hours)
- Korčula - Medieval walled town, alleged birthplace of Marco Polo (2.5 hours)
Gastronomy: A Taste of Dalmatia
Split's culinary scene reflects its position between land and sea. Fresh seafood dominates menus, but traditional Dalmatian dishes include:
- Pašticada - Beef stewed in wine sauce with prunes and gnocchi, a festive specialty
- Black risotto - Made with cuttlefish ink and fresh seafood
- Gregada - White fish stew with potatoes and white wine
- Soparnik - Traditional Swiss chard pie from nearby Poljica region (UNESCO protected)
The city has also embraced modern dining, with numerous restaurants earning recognition in international guides, from traditional konobas (taverns) to contemporary fine dining establishments.
Split's Economic Renaissance
After the challenges of the 1990s, Split has experienced remarkable economic growth. Tourism now drives much of the economy, with cruise ships bringing thousands of visitors daily during summer. The city has also emerged as a tech hub, with numerous IT companies choosing Split for its quality of life and educated workforce.
The expansion of Split Airport has made the city more accessible, with direct flights from across Europe increasing annually. The nearby town of Kaštela has become home to several industrial zones, while Split's port remains one of Croatia's busiest for both cargo and passenger traffic.
Education and Youth
Split is a university city, home to over 20,000 students attending the University of Split (founded 1974). The university includes faculties of medicine, engineering, economics, and sciences, contributing to the city's young, dynamic atmosphere. The student presence is particularly visible in neighborhoods like Sućidar, filled with cafes, affordable restaurants, and nightlife.
Sports: Football and Water Polo
Sport is serious business in Split. The city's football clubs, Hajduk Split (founded 1911), commands fierce loyalty—match days at Poljud Stadium are experiences of passion and tradition. The club's anthem echoes through the city, and the Torcida (supporters' group) is considered one of Europe's oldest and most devoted fan clubs.
Water polo is equally important, with clubs like Jadran and Mornar producing world-class players. During summer evenings, you'll find impromptu picigin matches at Bačvice beach—a uniquely Split game played in shallow water.
Visiting Split from Stobreč
Staying in Stobreč offers the perfect base for exploring Split. You get the peace of a small coastal town while remaining just minutes from the city's attractions. The journey is easy:
- By bus: Frequent local buses (route 25) connect Stobreč to Split's center (15-20 minutes)
- By car: 6 kilometers along the coastal road (10-15 minutes, parking can be challenging in peak season)
- By bike: Pleasant coastal cycling path connects the two (25-30 minutes)
- By boat: Summer water taxis offer scenic rides along the coast
Many of our guests visit Split multiple times during their stay—morning coffee on the Riva, afternoon museum visits, evening concerts in the Peristyle, or late-night dining in the atmospheric palace cellars.
Final Thoughts
Split is a city of contrasts and contradictions—ancient yet modern, relaxed yet dynamic, traditional yet innovative. It's a place where you can have breakfast in a 1,700-year-old Roman palace, swim from beaches within the city limits, hike forest trails, attend world-class festivals, and experience authentic Mediterranean life.
The Roman emperor Diocletian chose this location for its beauty, climate, and strategic position. Seventeen centuries later, millions of visitors each year confirm his excellent taste. Whether you're a history enthusiast, beach lover, foodie, or culture seeker, Split offers something extraordinary.
From Stobreč, we've watched Split grow and evolve while maintaining its essential character. We're always happy to share insider tips, recommend our favorite konobas, or help you discover the hidden corners that make Split one of the Mediterranean's most fascinating cities.
Local Tip from Ljubo & Meri
"Visit Split early in the morning before 9 AM to see the palace without crowds. Have coffee at one of the cafes on the Riva, then explore the quiet alleys before the cruise ships arrive. The light is beautiful, the city is peaceful, and you'll experience Split the way we locals do."
About the Authors: Ljubo was born and raised in Stobreč and has lived in the same neighborhood his whole life. Meri was born on the island of Brač and moved to Stobreč when they married. Together they've been welcoming guests since 2000. Their apartments provide the perfect peaceful retreat while keeping you close to Split's vibrant energy.